What is Vietnam, really? A long, S-shaped country on the map of Asia? That description alone says very little. A rising economic star? Perhaps — but when you begin with so little, rapid growth is almost inevitable. A cheap travel destination? I would like to think it is more than that. A country shaped by a heavy and turbulent history? Without question. If Cuba once felt to me like a prince dressed in a poor man’s clothes, then Vietnam is something different. Vietnam is like

For my final evening in Vietnam, Marek and I decide to join a party at one of the hostels. It’s extremely popular, packed with travelers eager to squeeze every last drop out of their time in Hanoi. Around 11 p.m., the party moves to a nearby club. At midnight, a metal shutter is pulled down over the club’s entrance — at least officially closing it. Inside, however, the party continues in full force. The music pounds on, drinks flow, and no one seems concerned about formal clo

Now here comes a story. It’s my second-to-last evening in Hanoi. Marek is still recovering from the challenges of the previous days, and Kristina has already gone to bed. But I’m not ready to call it a night. Instead, I wander alone through the streets of the capital. I step into one club, but it doesn’t quite feel right, so I move on. At midnight, as per police regulations, everything is ordered to shut down. Just then, I find myself on a dark side street where I’m almost pu

After some serious bargaining at our hostel, we manage to secure a full-day boat tour at such a low price that we are practically sworn to secrecy about what we paid. The adventure begins with a visit to a vast, almost psychedelic cave. Inside, the rock formations twist and rise dramatically, illuminated by colorful lights that give the whole place a surreal atmosphere. It feels like stepping into another world before we even reach the open water. And then — the bay itself. W

One could easily imagine staying on an island like this a little longer. The rhythm is slower, the scenery beautiful, and the atmosphere relaxed. So we take one last look at the island, pack up, and head for the ferry back to the mainland. There’s always that feeling while traveling — that maybe something even better awaits elsewhere. On the ferry, we unexpectedly become a small attraction ourselves. Some local passengers enthusiastically ask to take photos with us, and of co

Our journey toward Cat Ba Island takes us first through Hai Phong, Vietnam’s third-largest city. There, we stop at a local grill restaurant — smoky air, lively atmosphere, and tables filled with sizzling dishes. It’s a proper introduction to northern Vietnam’s energy. Hai Phong also leaves a strong ideological impression. We pass a poster dedicated to “Heroes of Socialist Labor,” with a large image of Ho Chi Minh watching from above. The symbolism is unmistakable. A wall pain

Near our hotel, a sawmill hums steadily — a reminder that everyday working life continues alongside the tourist routes. But our focus today is Tam Coc, which translates as “Three Caves” — a scenic boat ride along a winding river near Ninh Binh. The setting is spectacular. Limestone karst formations rise dramatically from flat rice fields and calm waters, their rounded shapes giving the landscape its distinctive look. These almost egg-shaped mountains are precisely why so many

On the evening of Day 11, we board a night train heading north toward Ninh Binh — another long stretch of our journey, this time covering a significant portion of Vietnam while we (attempt to) sleep. The compartment itself isn’t bad at all. Clean enough, reasonably comfortable. The real challenge, however, is the movement. The train rocks and sways so intensely that we slide back and forth in our bunks throughout the night. Sleeping becomes less about rest and more about endu

Our day in Hue begins practically — with a visit to the bus station to buy our onward tickets. From there, we walk back along the riverbank toward the bridge, taking in the calm atmosphere of the Perfume River. As in many Vietnamese cities, communist propaganda posters are prominently displayed around town — colorful, confident, and ideologically unmistakable. They form a striking backdrop to daily life. We cross a large bridge, with mountains visible in the distance and boat

In the morning, we cycle about an hour out of town to visit Bella at her home. It’s a quieter, more rural setting — a glimpse into everyday Vietnamese family life away from the tourist streets. We meet her mother and sister, and see her brother’s many caged birds — clearly a point of pride. Bella shows us around their large two-story family house. Inside, a framed photograph of her late father stands on a cabinet, a quiet reminder of his presence in the home. Soon we set off

On our second evening with Bella, she introduces us to something she calls “rice wine.” In reality, it’s closer to homemade moonshine — completely clear and sold in an ordinary plastic water bottle. Strong, simple, and definitely not to be underestimated. On our last two evenings in town, we sit by the river, raising toasts and enjoying the warm air. At some point, we start playing a local singing game. The rule is simple but challenging: you must quickly sing a song that beg

We rent scooters and set off on roughly an hour-long ride to the Marble Mountains. There’s something liberating about riding through Vietnam on two wheels — chaotic traffic, warm air, and the constant hum of engines all around. On the way, we stop at the beach. The coastline stretches wide and open, and the round basket boats — simple woven vessels — float near the shore. These bowl-shaped boats are completely normal here, even if they look unusual to foreign eyes. Nearby, lo

Return from the Marble Mountains

Hoi An’s history stretches back some 2,000 years. Over different periods, it has been an important trading port, connecting Vietnam with merchants from China, Japan, and Europe. Today, its preserved old town reflects those influences in architecture, atmosphere, and rhythm of life. An Estonian we met there told us that, in his opinion, Hoi An is the most beautiful city in Vietnam. After spending some time wandering its lantern-lit streets, we found it hard to disagree. The ol

We once again climb into the now-familiar sardine can on wheels — this time for the long journey from Mui Ne to Hoi An, with a stopover in Nha Trang. Distance: 750 kilometers. Estimated time: long enough to question your life choices. How does one fill 17 hours on a bus? By untangling the knots of Estonian and European society with your travel companions. By listening to audiobooks. By staring out into the dark as heavy rain pours down and distant fishing boats flicker on the

We set off on a jeep tour to explore the famous sand dunes near Mui Ne. The vehicle itself already felt like part of the adventure — an old open-top jeep, the kind that may well have once had a very different purpose decades ago. Our first stop came quickly and unexpectedly. We were asked to remove our shoes and walk barefoot into a muddy stream. At that moment, we had no idea what exactly awaited us — only that this was clearly not going to be an ordinary sightseeing tour. T