By Train Across Half of Vietnam

On the evening of Day 11, we board a night train heading north toward Ninh Binh — another long stretch of our journey, this time covering a significant portion of Vietnam while we (attempt to) sleep.

The compartment itself isn’t bad at all. Clean enough, reasonably comfortable. The real challenge, however, is the movement. The train rocks and sways so intensely that we slide back and forth in our bunks throughout the night. Sleeping becomes less about rest and more about endurance.

After a restless night of rattling tracks and sudden jolts, we arrive tired but relieved in Ninh Binh and make our way to the hotel.

Later, once we’ve recovered a bit, we rent bicycles and set off to explore the surrounding countryside. Before long, the landscape opens up to reveal the region’s famous limestone mountains rising dramatically from the flat fields. The scenery feels almost surreal — quiet rural roads, towering karst formations, and, somewhat unexpectedly, an impressive number of geese.

We park the bikes and climb a long staircase up one of the hills. Step by step, the view expands beneath us — rice fields, winding rivers, and those distinctive rounded peaks stretching into the distance.

Back in town, we encounter something entirely different: a funeral procession taking place right on the street. Life and death unfolding in the open, woven naturally into the rhythm of everyday Vietnamese life.

It’s a day of contrasts — sleepless train rides, peaceful countryside cycling, panoramic climbs, and glimpses into local traditions. Vietnam continues to surprise.