Crossing into Jordan to See a Wonder of the World

I take a taxi to the border to travel to Jordan, a country that is politically hostile toward Israel. Because of the ongoing tensions between the two countries, there are no official buses crossing the border. My taxi driver complains about the situation: according to him, the Jordanian king invests millions into the competing resort town on the other side, while Israel spends most of its money on the military, since its neighbors are constantly waiting for an opportunity to attack. Depending on the estimate, 20–40% of Israel’s state budget goes to defense.

The border crossing itself goes smoothly. On the Jordanian side, however, I am immediately greeted by the taxi mafia, which—with the government’s approval—charges all arriving travelers 11 euros for a very short ride to the nearby resort city of Aqaba. From there I continue by bus to Wadi Musa, the town located next to the ancient rock city of Petra.

Petra, built around the beginning of the Common Era, is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. After visiting it, I will have only two wonders left to see: the Taj Mahal in India and the Great Pyramids of Giza in Egypt, the only surviving wonder of the ancient world.

In the evening I climb around the rocks near the ruins of an old fortress overlooking Petra. My plan is to try something a bit adventurous the next morning—entering the ancient city from the cliffs above, rather than through the official entrance.

After nightfall I join a tour called “Petra by Night.” Along a narrow path between towering rock walls, hundreds of candles guide a large crowd toward Petra’s most famous monument, the Treasury. There, local musicians play ancient melodies on simple traditional instruments. Apart from the candles, the only light comes from the moon shining in the sky.

Together with a Spanish woman and a Korean couple who arrived on the same bus as I did, we sit on the ground in front of the Treasury and listen to the music. The atmosphere is calm and almost surreal, though the evening air is surprisingly cool.

Jordan itself feels noticeably poorer than Israel, which means that travelers encounter quite a bit of both overcharging and straightforward begging. My hostel in Wadi Musa—called Valentine Inn—is no exception, as they initially try to charge a little more than the real price. Still, the town provides a good base for exploring Petra.

Even the streets of the town have their own curiosities. Some cars are so heavily modified that in the dark you can barely tell what kind of vehicle is approaching you.