Vagator Beach, a Fort, and the Fishing Harbor

Today we head to Vagator Beach. Compared to Anjuna, it feels a little wilder — fishing boats resting offshore, red cliffs rising behind the sand, and fewer crowds.

On the beach, life moves at its own pace. A stray dog wanders nearby — friendly during the day, we’re told, but apparently far less approachable at night. A cow strolls casually along the shoreline, as if it owns the place. In India, even beaches are shared territory.

There I meet Peter Symmer from Chile — judging by his surname, one of his ancestors likely had German roots. At one point, he poses for a photo with a cow, which somehow feels perfectly normal in this setting.

From the beach, we climb up the hill overlooking Vagator. The hike is short but rewarding. The view opens up over the Arabian Sea, the coastline curving away into the distance. Red earth, green palms, blue water — Goa’s color palette is striking.

At the top, we stumble upon the ruins of an old fort. Crumbling stone walls, weathered by centuries of sun and wind, stand quietly above the sea. And nearby — somewhat unexpectedly — a pig wanders through the ruins. History and everyday rural life blend seamlessly.

Later, we make our way to the fishing harbor. Freshly caught seafood is being sold right on the docks. Boats come and go, and even as the sun begins to set, many fishing boats are still out at sea, their silhouettes visible against the fading light.

As evening falls, we sit down at a local restaurant. On the wall, a familiar face appears — Che Guevara — alongside the obligatory “Free WiFi” sign. Revolution and connectivity, side by side.

Dinner is simple and satisfying: rice with chicken, naan bread, and a spicy curry-like stew. A fitting end to a day that combined beach life, a bit of hiking, fragments of history, and the steady rhythm of coastal Goa.