The Maya City of Calakmul Hidden in the Jungle
It is pouring rain in the morning as we set out on a several-hour journey to the ruins of Calakmul, deep in the jungle. We travel together with a German couple we met earlier in Tulum, who have arranged a taxi for the whole day. The cost is 1400 pesos (about 80 euros), which works out to 20 euros per person.
The road is full of potholes, and at times the rain even leaks into our old, seatbelt-less Nissan, leaving Christine with a rather wet backside. Despite the rough ride, we manage to reach the site without any major problems. By the time we arrive, the rain has also stopped.
We invite our taxi driver Viktor, who has distinctive metal front teeth, to join us inside the park. He is delighted at the chance to finally see the city of his ancestors.
Calakmul was one of the two most important centers of the Maya civilization, the other being Tikal, located nearby across the border in Guatemala. At its peak around 600 AD, Calakmul had about 50,000 inhabitants, while the entire kingdom is believed to have had around 1.75 million people—more than the population of Estonia today.
We climb one Maya structure after another until we finally reach the Great Pyramid. Even when we first spot it from the top of another pyramid, the structure is already impressive. Rising 55 meters high, with multiple tiers spreading across a wide base, it dominates the surrounding jungle.
When we finally climb to the top ourselves, the experience becomes truly special.
In every direction there is nothing but endless forest. American vultures circle above the pyramid. Otherwise there is complete silence—until suddenly the deep howls of howler monkeys echo from somewhere below. The sound lasts for several minutes and makes it feel as if we are truly in the middle of the wild.
We stand there quietly, simply taking it all in.
But eventually, it is time to head back.
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