The Fishing Village of Medewi. Yoga Teacher Nilu

On Monday, I wake up at our accommodation in Medewi and enjoy the wonderful ocean view from the terrace. We chose this fishing village as our stop because we had read in Lonely Planet before the trip that it has remained much as Bali was 20 years ago, before mass tourism. In this quiet fishing village, you’re more likely to meet people who are already quite familiar with Bali.

After breakfast, I watch as fishermen bring everything they’ve caught from the sea to the small fish market near the beach. Then two of my travel companions take a surf lesson, while the third tries surfing on his own. The calmer inner bay of Medewi is suitable for beginners, but near the part of the beach with large and dangerous waves, there’s a sign stating that only very experienced surfers are allowed to ride them. Throughout the day, groups of surfers are out there, and some of them aren’t even stopped by the occasional tropical storm with heavy rain. Because of Medewi’s rocky seabed, it’s wise to bring special water shoes.

When we go to eat at a beachfront café, we see a group of surfers relaxing there and sharing their impressions. After trying some local fish and taking a short break, the three of us head to a yoga class held on the terrace of our accommodation. In addition to us, there are three other women staying at our guesthouse. For me, it’s the first yoga class of my life, and considering the temperature is over 30 degrees Celsius with high humidity, I get quite hot. After the session, our teacher says it was just an easy, relaxing yoga class—but in the mornings she teaches seriously challenging sessions.

After class, we chat with the yoga teacher. I find out why she speaks the best English I’ve heard from a local so far—she studied to become an English teacher at university. I understand that she graduated quite recently. Her name is Nilu, and she lives somewhere nearby. The reason she works as a yoga instructor instead of an English teacher is simple: she earns significantly more teaching yoga.

After yoga, we return to the same beachfront café because I want to try crayfish—lobster—there. I ask whether it’s possible to order it without booking in advance. I’m told that if I place the order, they’ll immediately buy one from someone nearby, and I’ll be able to eat it within half an hour. And that’s exactly what happens. It tastes truly delicious. Overall, my impression of this small seaside village is extremely positive.