At the Prambanan Temples and Near the Active Merapi Volcano

On Thursday morning, our driver Edwin picks us up again from our hotel in Yogyakarta, and we head to the Prambanan temple complex, the second most important attraction in the region. This 9th-century Hindu temple complex, like Borobudur, is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Only Angkor Wat in Cambodia is a larger Hindu complex in Southeast Asia. Interspersed among the Hindu temples are several Buddhist temples from the same period, showing that followers of the two religions coexisted peacefully here.

Edwin tells us that he used to work as an accountant in a hotel, but in 2020, due to the coronavirus pandemic, the hotel went bankrupt and he lost his job. That’s when he became an app-based taxi and private driver. He says he never formally studied accounting—he’s self-taught.

While it rained throughout our excursion the previous day, this time the sky blazes with a scorching sun. At one temple, Edwin asks why Western tourists often look so serious and angry. For example, he recently offered his services to some tourists and they angrily said “no.” I explain that tourists are constantly being offered various services, which becomes exhausting, and eventually only a firm, categorical “no” works.

Inside the temple, where 8th-century reliefs depict several women standing beside a deity, Edwin explains that in Indonesia a Muslim man (and, as a quick online search later suggests, in certain cases men of other religious backgrounds as well) may take up to four wives, but he must first obtain consent from each existing wife. If a wife refuses, she has the right to divorce. Edwin himself has only one wife, but he says his friend has three—the youngest is 18. The friend is between 40 and 50 years old and, according to Edwin, cares most about the youngest wife.

Throughout the temple complex, we see many groups of local students who want to take photos with us and interview us in English on camera for their English classes.

Afterward, we drive to the active Mount Merapi volcano—as close as visitors are allowed. It can erupt violently at any time, so access to the immediate vicinity is restricted, and various warning systems have been installed in the surrounding area. At the same time, camping tours are organized nearby to observe lava flows, since small amounts of lava continuously seep out and are visible only in the dark.

The last major eruption here occurred in 2010. As a result, 353 people died and 350,000 fled their homes. Many never returned. Even now, abandoned houses can be seen along the way. Most of the deaths were caused by pyroclastic flows—currents of gas and volcanic particles moving at speeds of 100 to 700 km/h and reaching temperatures of up to 1,000°C. Lava itself usually flows slowly enough that people can escape from it.

This time, we ask Edwin not to take us to such a fancy place for lunch, so he brings us instead to a local eatery, where a meal costs only 2–3 euros.

On the drive back, Edwin explains that there are no Teslas in Indonesia because during negotiations with the government, Tesla refused to bring part of its production to Indonesia, and therefore the government does not allow Tesla imports. Similarly, the iPhone 16 is not sold in Indonesia because Apple did not move production to the country and was unwilling to pay a 20% import tax. Older iPhone models are still available, but the latest one cannot even be used on local networks. Japanese, Chinese, and Korean car manufacturers whose vehicles are common on the streets all have some form of production or assembly in Indonesia.

Edwin says he bought his 2014 Toyota new on a leasing plan and paid it off over three years. When I ask whether traffic accidents are common, he confirms that they are—especially involving scooters. All cars must have mandatory traffic insurance, which can be paid in five-year installments, with the expiration date displayed on the license plate. Cars must also undergo regular inspections—first five years after purchase, and then annually.

Edwin also tells us that he has purchased private health insurance for all his family members, because the public healthcare system has very long waiting times and lower service standards. His older son works as an electronics technician repairing mobile phones and other devices, while his younger son works in a hotel.

Edwin’s favorite foods are hamburgers and pizza, but he often can’t afford them. A proper Burger King burger costs 100,000 rupiah, which is not a small amount of money. For six hours of work as a driver and guide, he charges 400,000 rupiah—the equivalent of only four burgers.

As for leisure activities, he says he hasn’t been to the cinema in 20 years, though young people still go. He has attended ballet performances inspired by Hindu myths at Prambanan twice, but theater doesn’t interest him at all. According to him, locals generally don’t visit museums either. Instead, they prefer going to the beach or spending time in shopping malls.

In response to my question, he says he is very proud of Indonesia. However, he immediately adds that he dislikes politicians and police officers, whom he considers corrupt.