Canyon, Heat, and an Awkward Bill. A Little Hut on the Edge of the Savannah

On Wednesday morning, we pack our things and say goodbye to Hammerstein Lodge. We drive once more into Sesriem National Park to visit Sesriem Canyon — a massive gorge carved into the earth by a river over centuries. It is the hottest day so far; by the afternoon, the car’s external thermometer reads 40 degrees Celsius.

The canyon offers some refuge from the scorching heat, and a group of young Germans we meet there are spending time by a small pool, throwing pebbles into holes in the rock wall. They’ve even turned it into a competition. We chat with them for a while, and as we’re about to leave, they shout from afar asking how to say “cheers” in Estonian. I answer in a voice that echoes through the entire canyon: “Terviseks!”

Afterwards, we eat at a nearby restaurant in Sesriem National Park. We run into one of the young German couples there and invite them to join our table. It turns out they’ve rented a car with a rooftop tent, meaning they sleep in a tent that folds out on top of the vehicle. This allows them to save money on accommodation, though they don’t camp just anywhere — they stay at designated campsites meant for travelers like them. Usually, you can park your car next to a small shelter equipped with a kitchen area and a toilet. Their travel route is quite similar to ours, except they’ve completely skipped the capital, Windhoek.

We say goodbye and continue driving north. Some time later, we realize that although one of us thought the other had already paid the food bill — since drinks had to be paid for in advance — the bill had in fact been left unpaid. It was likely charged to that same German couple staying at the campsite where the restaurant was located. It is extremely embarrassing, but we don’t turn back, and we don’t have their contact details. We decide that if we happen to meet them again at one of the next stops, we’ll repay them and apologize.

Just before sunset, we arrive at a tourist camp called Camp Gecko, where tiny two-story huts with canvas walls are built into the hillside for accommodation. We enjoy a delicious dinner there. Geckos are everywhere — even inside our hut.

We take a walk up the hill and see the valley bathed in fantastic sunset light. Along the way, we chat with a group of German women staying a few huts away from us. One of them has lived in Namibia for over ten years, and the others are visiting her.

Later, using charcoal and fire starters made from rhinoceros dung that we bought earlier, we grill oryx meat (similar to beef), sausages, and some kind of stuffed vegetable, which together make a very tasty dinner.

Since we are far away from any settlements, the night sky is incredibly clear and filled with stars. Despite the distant rustling sounds of animals, we sleep very well here.