Wandering in the Red Desert

On Tuesday, we wake up at Hammerstein Lodge, have breakfast, and set off towards Sossusvlei. At first, we try to follow the shortcut suggested by Google Maps. We end up at an expensive tourist camp, where we’re told that only their guests are allowed to drive across their land. We have to turn back and drive for another hour. The detour isn’t pointless, though — along the rocky desert road, we spot oryx walking nearby.

In Sesriem, we fill up the tank and continue into Sesriem National Park. The car’s external thermometer shows 39 degrees Celsius.

Our drive between the red sand dunes begins. Along the roadside, we see ostriches strolling about. At first, we enjoy the smooth asphalt road, but eventually it turns into a very bumpy sandy track. From the parking area, we hike to Deadvlei, a dried-up clay pan where 900-year-old charred trees still stand. We climb to the top of a massive red sand dune and then make our way straight down from there. We also visit Sossusvlei before starting the drive back. On the way, we make another stop at Dune 45.

In Sesriem, we refuel again and return to Hammerstein Lodge. We are completely exhausted and stained red by the iron-rich sand.

After a shower, we enjoy a buffet dinner. The lodge staff put on a small performance for us and the other tourists — they dance traditional African dances and sing African songs.